Sunday, December 30, 2007

Email - December 9, 2007

December 9, 2007
Family and friends-
Finally made it back to the capital, Niamey, for a weekend of fun in between our 2-week inservice training. It's so great to be back in "civilization," after spending so much time in the bush, although I do miss my village and villagers. I've felt like a king this past week at the training site - we get meals cooked for us (with meat!), snack twice a day, air conditioning where I sleep, Americans to speak english with, my laundry gets taken care of, movies, electricity, and actual showers and toilets. It's amazing what becomes a treat once you've been out in the boonies for a while. I wouldn't change it for the world, though.
So I have one more week of training to go and then I'll spend a couple of days in the capital before heading back to my village to celebrate Tabaski (Muslim holiday) with my villagers. I haven't quite decided what I'm doing for X-Mas but I'll probably head out east because they have a Christmas party at the hostel there. I'm unsure where I'll spend New Year's eve.
I've been trying to put away some money for my trip to Ghana in late January/early February for the 2008 Africa Cup of Nations. Very excited about that! So, a few stories to share with you guys about life here in Niger. Last week I heard rumor of a new "American" restaurant in the capital so a bunch of us went to check it out. BY FAR the best, nicest building/restaurant I have been in country. They had air conditioning, a flat screen tv, clean floors, lots of desserts and some great entrees. I ate some greek sandwich thing and later had some pizza! They even had napkins - no one in Niger has napkins. It was an excellent meal. So, last night as we were heading back from a bar/restaurant where we went dancing, we felt a couple of sprinkles - it was definitely coming down in Niger in December! The taxi driver said he had never seen it before. Once dry season comes around, the rain stops for a good 8 months - it hadn't rained but once since rainy season ended in late September. I set up my bed on the hostel's roof where we all sleep, but the rain started again and I ended up moving inside for the night. Yesterday I also went to the zoo in the capital- it was both a good and bad experience. On one hand it was terrible to see these majestic animals in extremely small compounds with no room to exercise at all, but on the other hand, they didn't have the guard rails set up 20 feet from the actual cage like they do in the states. I could have touched a lioness if I had wanted to; well, I did want to but I was afraid to. I saw lions, baboons- very clever animals, monkeys, an ostrich, gazelles - beautiful, crocs, hyenas - so much bigger than you would ever imagine, and some eagles. Overall it was a good experience and I'm glad I went.
Okay, I know I kind of got long winded on this one but I wanted to catch you all up on my life. I hope all is well back in the states; it's hard to imagine that X-Mas is right around the corner- I feel so distant from it all. I hope you all enjoy the Holiday Season and time off from work/school. Please keep in touch and continue sending letters, pictures, news, anything at all.
Take care,
James aka Zatara

Letter to Family - December 5, 2007

December 5, 2007

Wow, Christmas is coming, isn't it? Well, I guess it will come and go by the time you get this. I know I wrote you guys a small note with Nickie's package - not sure which will arrive first. Things are great here - just living the dream. I'm at the training site for two weeks for technical training. I'm not too excited about all of the sessions but it's great being back with all of the other volunteers from my stage. We've been having a blast together and have lots of games and activities to keep us busy during free time - late night hide and seek, soccer, frisbee, improv, a weight gain competition, and maybe even Christmas caroling and Secret Santa.

Well, I received your letters from late August and early September, along with two more care packages. Thanks, again! It helps so much when I'm out in the bush - beans, rice, noodles, and millet, all get old if you eat them often enough. I figured out how to make a dutch oven, so if you find some recipes for cakes, cookies, breads and pies, please send them my way. I'm especially looking for a mango pie/cake/bread recipe, because mango season will be here soon. I have plenty of honey in my village so I have been draining the comb and funneling it into bottles, so I'll have some for the future. I also plan to try to make my own fruit/granola bars - We'll see how that goes.

We have been learning about project proposals and I'm really anxious about getting started on a few in my village. I want to do a big map project for the school - a world map, a map of Africa, and a map of Niger. Also think I'm going to start a weekly health lesson at the school - nutrition and sanitation. I also plan on starting a weekly adult English class since many men have shown interest. And I plan on doing a well-repair project soon because there is a lot of dirty standing water around both wells in my village. A lot of work coming up but I'm ready to get started. My villagers have a lot of effort so in sha allah (God willing), things will work out.

Mom, that radio transmitter was the best gift ever! It's so nice listening to good music when I'm cooking or doing laundry... I even take it to the neighbor's place nightly and listen to Bob Marley's CDs after dinner.

I'm living on about $10 a week, on average. Crazy, I know! Hopefully, I'll get the window in my hut installed and my interior walls cemented so I can decorate it better - it's pretty plain now. The spiders and my mouse keep me company (smiley face).

I want to let you guys know that I have learned a great amount about the importance of being patient - You have to in this country or you would go crazy and early terminate from the Peace Corps. I have also learned to be resourceful - I'm sure I'll be a great hiker/camper by the time I return. I understand why they say that you take away more than you give in your service.

Well, I guess that's all for now. Gonna hop in a real shower and sit on a real toilet before bed - Yes, I'm excited about that! I love you guys and think about you daily. I miss you all so much. Please wish all of our family and friends a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year for me. Take care and try to enjoy that cold weather - I'm jealous! I love you all and will talk top you all soon.

Love,

James

Letter to Family - December 1, 2007

December 1, 2007
Hey you guys - How are you all doing? Merry X-Mas! I can't believe it's already December! I have been here for over four months! It's beginning to feel like "cold season" at night (mid-50's), but it's still extremely hot during the day (110oF in the sun around 3:00 pm yesterday).
Well, I guess you guys will have already celebrated the Holidays by the time you get this, so I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas, filled with Holiday spirit, good food, cold weather (sorry, dad!) and awesome presents! I've already begun to reminisce of us decorating the house (inside and out), going to Christmas Eve service, opening presents, listening to Christmas carols, and just enjoying time together. It's true what they say - You don't know what you have until it's gone! I encourage you guys not to take things for granted, especially during the Holidays, where we realize how fortunate we all are. I miss you all and think about you daily.
I hope everything is great back home and you all are trying to live up to my legend (happy face). Christmas won't be the same without you guys but I know we'll have great times together when I return. Have a happy New Year and keep in touch. Take Holiday pictures and send me some. Tell all the friends and family that I send my love! Talk to you all soon!
Love,

James

Email - November 20, 2007

November 20, 2007
Family and Friends-

Back in civilization for a few days and I'm enjoying it! These past couple of weeks have been great at post, though. My language is really coming along.

I traveled down to Gaya last week to visit a buddy of mine and check out "city life" for a couple of days. We did our first radio show on Gaya Radio and spoke about our jobs as PC Volunteers- in Zarma, the local language, of course. We stumbled our way through but had a great time. We even played some American music on the air, including Bob Marley and Tupac. I waited at the bush taxi station for 3 1/2 hours for the battered van to get enough people packed in to head back to my village. I got the front middle seat so I didn't have any complaints. There were enough crazy vendors and action happening at the station to keep me from being bored while I waited. I got dropped off where the main road meets my laterite road and then made the 4 km bush walk to my village with my big bag on my head. I was pretty beat when I got home but was glad to get there.
I got my garden started and it's doing well- lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, and onions. I think I have it well guarded from the lizards, frogs and chickens that are always in and around my place so I just have to worry about bugs now.
I have a clever mouse living in my hut now that I have tried unsuccessfully to kill. Three other villagers and I were in my hut with sticks swatting at it when we found it's hiding spot but the darn thing got away. He has successfully eaten into my flour, gatorade packs, summer sausage, couscous, and pears, and also ate the only cabbage seeds that I had. As they say in Niger, 'kala suuru', have patience.
The Thanksgiving 'feast' should be a step up from village food but it won't be anything compared to being home with the family. At least I'll be able to spend it with friends. We have purchased a live turkey from someone in Dosso and are going to slow roast it on a spit over coals. We're going to pay a kid to stay with it and rotate the turkey the entire day. I'm making banana bread, pumpkin bread, and some sort of pie with whatever I can find at the market today...should be interesting.
We have Inservice Training in a couple weeks so I'll be heading back for 2 weeks. I'm excited about learning more about my work and funding, but even more excited about seeing all of my friends from other regions that I haven't seen in 2 months! It should be a fun reunion. For now my plans are to travel out east for Christmas but that's not set in stone. A 10-hour bus ride on a Nigerien bus line on Nigerien roads sounds a little intimidating but I'm sure it will be worth it.
I guess that's about all that's going on right now. Peace Corps is paying for my villagers to put a window in my hut and have the interior walls cemented (they are mud brick now) and I am so excited about that. It will be quite a step up for the bush life! All is well here; I'm in good health and great spirits!
I hope all is well back home. Keep me informed and keep sending letters when you all have time. Also, if you reply to my other e-mail address, also reply to this one because I can check this one more frequently. Don't forget to put my name under the subject line or I won't get it.
Write back soon if you can since I'll be here until Friday morning. Love you guys, take care.
Love,

James

Email - November 20, 2007

November 20, 2007
Mom and Dad-

Hey, how are things going in Houston?! What's new? Sorry you couldn't get a hold of me on Saturday; the service had been out for three days straight and just returned today. I got some thorny brush and netting put over my garden starter bed before I headed to another town yesterday. I didn't do a whole lot yesterday other than finish up a book and look through the package I got from you yesterday! Thank you so much once again. I received the one with a couple of dress shirts and my iPOD and transmitter...great stuff! The eight of us that were here played a long game of Trivial Pursuit which was a pretty good time.

This morning I got up early and walked to the market (20 minutes) to get some stuff for Thanksgiving as well as a few things that I can't find at my market, like toilet paper and margarine. I went by the post office to check for mail and picked up like 10 packages for our region. It took about an hour and a half to get that all taken care of and get them all in a taxi and get back to the hostel. Patience is a virtue. I got another package from you, though, so I was super excited! It was the one you sent on Nov 5th and had marshmallows, hot cocoa, and vanilla extract. Thanks so much once again, Mom; it makes bush life so much better having a treat now and again! I also got two of your letters, one from Aunt Joselyn, and one from Lara, my friend from back home.

I just got done baking a couple of loaves of banana bread for Turkey Day and I plan on making some pumpkin bread tomorrow. We're watching King Kong now but it's supposed to be a really long movie and the clarity is pretty bad so I gave up on it.

I guess that's about it for now; just wanted to write you all a quick note letting you know that all is well here in Niger. No worries. I'll be here until Friday morning but remember I'm 7 hours ahead of you guys now. I'll have my cell on me the entire time so feel free to call whenever, especially on Thanksgiving! Write back soon and I'll get back to you guys tomorrow. Love you all. Have a great day and savor that cold weather- I dream about it often!

Love,

James

Email - October 29, 2007

October 29, 2007

Family and Friends-

It's October 29th and I have just returned from a full month in the bush! Can't believe it! I've had my ups and downs, been through a few sick spells, but my spirits are high and I'm enjoying my time here. I'm definitely glad to be back with the other volunteers for a few days, have a cold drink, get a real shower, and watch a few movies. Oh, and speak English again! We're having a big Halloween party in a couple nights so I'm looking forward to that too. So...bush life...has its ups and downs for sure but I've gotten used to everyday life there.

I'll start with a typical day in the bush: I sleep outdoors on a cot under my shade hanger (the weather is getting cooler at night, some nights into the low 70s). I normally get up between 6:30 and 7:00, not because I'm done sleeping but because the roosters are going crazy, everyone else in the village is up and doing their morning chores, and there are usually several chickens running around my yard. Breakfast is next, usually oatmeal but sometimes fruit- oranges or Nigerien guavas. After I get done with my morning chores it's around 8:00 and I head out to greet the villagers. I sit down and hang out with different groups of men who hang out in a few spots around the village - near the Chief's quarters, under the big tree near the well, and by the small shop. It gets hot quickly so we hang out in the shade. Usually between 10:30 and 11:00, I head back to my place to read, listen to BBC, do some chores, and make lunch. I head back out around 1:00 pm and make my rounds again, finding some more shade to sit beneath. I hang out in the village until around 5:30 or 6:00 when I go back to my place for the long-awaited bucket bath! At 7:00, I head back out in the village and eat at the headmaster's (of the primary school) place and then drink tea or cocoa with him and his neighbor. If I'm not tired afterwards, I head to the Chief's quarters and hang out with his sons. I'm normally back at my place between 9 and 10. On other days I'll head out to the field with some of the men because it's harvest season now (beans, millet, and sorghoum) or travel to my market town which is about 10 km away.
I haven't begun what you would call "work" yet but learning the language is definitely work for me. That along with getting used to a different culture and way of life wears on you for sure. But as they say in Niger, "kala suuru" or "have patience". When I get back to my village after this mini-vacation I am going to help the women prepare their cold season garden as well as provide half of the seeds to them. I plan on starting a small garden in my concession- tomatoes, carrots, lettuce, and onions. We'll see how that goes. I also plan on doing some work at the primary school with the kids (school just now started today) which I'm really excited about!
Some of the cooler things that I've seen or done since I've been in the bush: chameleons, my first sight of a cobra- at the market with some guy selling medicine to ward off snakes, camels, amazing sunsets in the valley beyond my house, traditional Nigerien wrestling matches - they get pretty intense (not quite UFC though), shooting stars, the killing of cows for a celebration, blacksmiths making traditional tools, motorcycle rides through the bush, crammed "bush taxi" rides...the list goes on and on.
Cooking has been an interesting endeavor - I was never a culinary master, especially coming here right out of college. They do have some amazing food here in my region of Niger. Right now - palm fruits, oranges, bananas, guavas, limes, and sugarcane. I eat with my villagers whenever I can but I'm slowly learning!
Other than that, life is good. I love my village and my villagers, I couldn't have asked for a better post. I'll head back to my village on Friday and pick up where I left off. I plan on heading south in a couple of weeks to hang out with a volunteer there and we're supposed to make a trip across the Niger River into Benin to go to market there and hang out with some PC Benin volunteers so I'm really excited about that! All is well in Niger, my health is fine and I'm really enjoying my service. Over 3 months in, I can't believe it.
I guess that's about all for now, sorry that this is so long, I've just been out of touch from civilization for so long. I'll be in town for a few days so please reply if you have a chance. If you reply to this address, please put my name as the subject line or it won't get to me.
Also, please ask questions if I've left anything out. I love you guys and miss you all. Let me know about things going on back in the states; I'm excited to hear about your lives back home. Take care, I'll write again soon.

Love,

James

Letter to Family #3 - September 20, 2007

9/20/07
Hey guys! How is everyone doing? How's the weather in Houston? Hot and humid, I'm sure. Are y'all still getting a bunch of rain? The rainy season here is beginning to come to a close, which means hot weather. For the past week or so, it has been terribly hot during the day. It isn't until the early morning that it begins to cool down. October is nicknamed "mini hot season," since the rains have stopped but the cool weather has not arrived. Hopefully, when I get back to my village in a week and a half, the villagers will have put up a fence around my concession and built my covered porch/patio area to give me a little shade. I can't believe training is all but done and we swear in this Tuesday (9/25/07)! This Sunday we have a barbeque in Niamey and hamburgers are on the menu! It's been a long time since I've eaten a beef pattie so I'm really excited. On the 27th, we have the "Gender and Development" auction, where volunteers and outside vendors auction off stuff to us. I'm hoping to bid on a few items that might come in handy at post - a solar charger, drum, maybe a horse... We'll see. I finally received the first package and letter #2. Thanks so much! I was munching on the trail mix after dinner last nightand it was great!
It's weird reading your letter about the movies you have seen lately since I'm clueless about what's going on in the U.S. I did hear that they're making a movie based on the book "Into the Wild," about this guy who trekked into the Alaskan wilderness and was found dead months later. I just finished the book and really liked it. I think you would like the book, Dad; hopefully, the movie will be just as good!
I like my host family just fine - they are fun to joke with and laid back. But it's a little tough to spend time with them, especially the kids, after a long day of training. I'm definitely ready to have my own hut and space so I can have some down time to myself.
"Riduan" is my Nigerien name, given to me by my host family. It doesn't mean anything - just a popular Nigerien name. For post, I changed my name to "Zatara," which is what I'll go by for the next two years. It was the name given to the Count of Montecristo and means "driftwood" in the movie.
Have you all seen Brazil or his buddy riding arund in the Mustang? I miss that car!
How's the new job going, Mike? Making them big bucks? Any word on that opportunity with Shell Oil?
Nickie - Is the carwash job still going well? Have you been promoted to tire scrubber or did you quit to be a taco maker at Taco Bell? If so, send me a couple of gorditas and a cold Mountain Dew...
For the past two weeks or so, I haven't shaved so I'm beginning to look pretty scruffy. I'll get clean shaven before the swearing-in ceremony. I just bought a traditional Nigerien outfit that I'm going to wear so I'm sure I'll look swell!
My hair is getting a little shaggy - Maybe by February, it will be long enough to dread. I'm thinking of traveling to Ghana in February to watch the "Africa Nations Cup" - a soccer tournament that will be held in Accra, the capital. Maybe I'll get dreads while there... Also, I'm planning to travel east for Christmas because they have a big PCV gathering there every year for the Holidays.
Next month will be especially difficult. I'll be the only American in my village and my closest PCV neighbor will be 40 km away. My command of the language is not great, so that will be another challenge. I'll just have to adjust and I know I'll be fine. It will just be much different than these past two months. I'm ready, though, to get there and begin my actual service. We have had two people early terminate from our original 42. So I'll swear-in with another 40, a pretty awesome number, I think!
How's Alabama football going? I never thought I'd say it but those home games at BAMA are one of the biggest things I miss. Someone told me that Auburn recently lost, so I got a kick out of that. Hopefully, we can finally get a win against them this year - Too bad I won't be there to see it!
Last night we had a "fete" (party/celebration) with our host family as thanks fo rtheir hospitality. The Peace Corps provided cake, popcorn, Cokes, and meat - Yes, meat!!! I gave my host family the gifts I brought for them - a calendar, cologne, candy and some jewelry - and they were most appreciative.
After swearing-in, we'll be taking trips to Niamey to get some necessities for our site - furniture, cooking/cleaning supplies, etc. Hopefully, I can make my little hut nice, since I'll be living in it for two years. I plan to get a small table or two, a couple of trunks, hopefully a book shelf, and a few chairs. Other than shopping, we'll have a few days to just relax and play sports since training will be over. I'm definitely looking forward to that! I'm excited about settling down at my post so I can arrange things and not live out of a suitcase. I can also take the time to figure out my new camera, which I haven't done yet, even though I have taken over 400 pictures!
Well, that's all for now. Everything in Niger is just fine and my spirits are high, so you guys have nothing to worry about. Keep in touch and continue to write letters/send packages! I love you guys and miss you all dearly!
Love,
James aka Zatara

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Christmas in the capital...of Niger



Merry Christmas you guys, I hope you all are enjoying the holidays back home. Just a quick update on Christmas here in Niger. On Christmas Eve I went to mass at the Cathedral Notre Dame in Niamey, the capital, with a couple of friends. The church was packed and the service was nice, especially the upbeat music. Everything was in French but I recognized a few prayers and Christmas hymns. Afterwards, we came back to the hostel where a crazy dance party was going on which lasted well into Christmas morning! There were quite a few volunteers who had come into town for the holidays so it was a great time! Christmas morning we all opened our stockings and then had a big breakfast which included pancakes, cinnamon rolls, banana bread, snickerdoodle cookies, and hot cocoa! Good stuff. We watched A Christmas Carol and later A Christmas Story, two holiday favorites. That afternoon most of us went to a PC staff member's house to hang out there and eat more food. Even the country director showed up so we all had a great time over there! Most of us took it easy that evening and hung around the hostel because we were all too full to do anything or go anywhere. Even though I was away from home and my family and friends, it was a better Christmas than I could have asked for. Tomorrow afternoon I plan on taking off for my post...finally back to the bush and to a more relaxed pace. I plan on spending the New Year down south with a few close friends so it should be a good time. I'm not sure when I'll be back in civilization but keep the letters coming and I'll update y'all again as soon as I can. Take care and have a happy new year!