Saturday, August 23, 2008

July and August...in Niger



I have been heading out to the neighboring Fulani village a lot recently. The Fulani are an ethnic group in Niger who normally live in small encampments out in the bush, far from a major road or town. They are semi-nomadic, herding sheep, goats, and cattle and selling milk and butter. There is a family out in the bush which I have befriended and I spend my time there just visiting with them and learning a bit of Fulfulde, their dialect. I recently began learning how to stitch the calabash covers which Fulani women make and sell. They use thin strands of palm fronds, some dyed red and black, and weave decorative designs to form a lid for the calabash which they use to store milk and grains.

Since it is rainy season I have been receiving eggs from my villagers on a regular basis which has been amazing. I have been making crepes, fried eggs, hard-boiled eggs, and omelets almost daily; a nice supplement to my limited Nigerien diet.

I began studying French not long ago and that’s been difficult but I’m slowly progressing. I have also begun teaching a couple villagers English so I tutor them every night after dinner. It’s amazing to think that there are grown adults who do not know how to read at all, even some who can’t read a digital clock. I guess for those who only farmed from the time they were children, it’s not so out of the ordinary.

The men are now out in the fields on a daily basis, usually from around 7am to 5pm, farming and weeding their fields. I have gone out on a couple of occasions, once to help thin the millet and once to actually farm. Both days I was out in the fields the entire day and I quickly realized how hard the work is, not to mention the extreme heat. I have such an appreciation for the effort that they have, especially during Ramadan when they are fasting the entire time that they are out in the fields. They planted two types of millet, one which is ready for harvest in three months and another which takes six months. The quick-harvest millet should be harvested very soon if the rains continue to be frequent. Once they begin to harvest, my villagers will be able to breathe easily again as they won’t have to worry about not having food from day to day.

I have been at the training site near the capital for the past couple of weeks helping to prepare the new group of education, health and decentralization trainees for life at post. It has been a lot of fun hanging out with this new group since they are so full of energy and ready to get out into the fields and work. It has been a refresher for me not only because I am eating amazing food on a daily basis (although the newbies probably think differently about the meals) but also because I have become really motivated again after hearing them get excited about post. It is also neat to see things from the flip side as I was in their shoes only one year ago. I can’t wait to head back to the bush and get some more projects under way.

I guess that about sums up my life for the past little while. Hope all is well back in the states and you all aren’t too sweaty and hot. Just remember no matter how hot you get, it’s just a little bit hotter and a whole lot sweatier out this way! Keep in touch.